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Zephyr AK1136 Reviews
Rated 4 out of
Great looking but a bit loudI received the hood and it was in great condition. The insulation went very smoothly and every thing worked great. The instructions were clear aside from the the venting part, but it is easy to figure out.
As I mentioned above, this is a great looking unit, I will recommend it, bit it louder than I expected
Date published: 2010-06-26
Rated 3 out of
Horrible design for installation!Unless doing a pristine new install, where you can bring the unit UP to the cabinet above and slide the vent pipe down TO it, you have to NOT do what the installation instructions say to get this thing in!
I have vertical venting going up through the cabinet above, and was doing replacement of a old range hood that had failed.
Zephyr's phone support was pathetic. They said I had to email the design techs for an answer..which I did, but they never answered back, ever...The conclusion is obvious, and I will never buy another Zephyr product.
Here is what I wrote:
Dear Design Techs...Your phone product support said I have to email you about this.
I bought an AK1136 and am trying to install it as per your very minimal directions. It is a replacement for a prior range hood so all the cabinets and vertical ducting are already there, etc.
1. Supposedly as per the instructions picture, one screws retaining screws into the underside of the cabinet above and then lift, slide and push the range hood onto those four screws than then lock it into the holding grooves. Ummm...even if that were possible how does one tighten these screws as you have those rigid cross members at the base of the hood going from front to back right under those round and slotted holes in the top! They only allow a screwdriver access at about a 30 degree angle (coming at it in from the center) so obviously this gets nowhere. The screwdriver won't bite at that angle and there is only those few inches of working space there. Those blocking plates on the lower part of the frame either side (below the screw-in holes in top) feel like they have some kind of retaining spring and maybe they can be removed so that this "vertical screwing in of the screws & tightening" can take place...but I can't tell if these cross pieces come out or not. Nothing I can feel says they do and no way I am going to force them. If they were not there (like most other range hoods I have put in), it would be easier as then there would be direct vertical access for the screwdriver.
So that's question one...as obviously too, the screws holding the thing up need to be loose enough to slide the hood in but then tightened later or it will fall off in a heartbeat if it moves forward a bit by vibration or whatever.
2. Supposedly one lifts and slides the hood into position under the cabinet to meet the pre-placed screws (ref. above). But...how on earth do you slide in and do that with the 2" or so damper sticking up on the top (put there prior as have to screw it in and then duct tape it!). It "blocks" any action such as the required "push back" to lock the holding screws into their slots. Also, how on earth to get the damper to slide up into the rectangular vent pipe AND align with the four screws in underside of the cabinet, and then push the hood to lock into the screws - with the damper rigidly locked into the vertical vent pipe now...is, well, impossible.
Vaguely, the only way to do all this is to NOT have the cabinet above, put on the damper (vertically vented in my case) and seal it up with duct tape, then manipulate the whole range hood so that the damper slides up into the pre-existing vertical ducting, then attach the vent to...either the wall studs (not in your instructions or recommendations) or the cabinet above...but how to screw into your pre-set retaining holes in the roof of the hood if those cross members are in the way below???
In short...Impossible. Please try it for yourselves and tell me if I am being an idiot. I would love to hear how you do it.
Personally, without absolute perfection of line up (never happens on a re-model or replacement), the only way I can see to do this is remove the top cabinet above (so long as the ducting allows removal of the cabinet - which mine does) and get the freedom to put the damper in first, then bring up the range hood to meet it, then seal the damper to the hood, then use an anti-gravity device to hold the range hood in mid air while putting the cabinet back above, then screw through the "accessible" parts of the roof of the range hood into the base of the cabinet...which will void the warranty as I am making holes through the sheet metal where you did not say they could be made. But there are no other ways I can see to do this given your design.
I await enlightenment.
Date published: 2013-06-19
Rated 5 out of
Easy to install and good lookingNo problem with installation. Exact fit as replacement.
Finish coat(white) was very good on this unit, no scratches, marks or other blemishes. I think it is a very good quality item. But, I must say, that it is a little louder than I thought it would be. However It is still rather quiet snd I am pleased.
Date published: 2014-02-04
Rated 4 out of
under counter hoodvery nice, my only negitive would be that the lights could be brighter, but they are adiquite
Date published: 2012-11-28
Rated 5 out of
Got what I neededGreat replacement fot 40 year old exhaust hood.
Date published: 2012-09-01
Rated 5 out of
looks great and works great, one screen was damaged, I called the company and two days later I received two new screens--I couldn't believe the great service. I would diffidently do business with them again
Date published: 2014-11-01
Rated 5 out of
Zephyr Hood AK1136I bought this & installed it - perfectly fit & was very well priced, packaged & shipped!
Date published: 2014-03-31
How much does it weigh?
A. The Zephyr AK1136 weighs 29 pounds.
What is the top side measurement, from the back of the unit to the slope at the front?
A. The depth of the top of the Zephyr AK1136 range hood is 14-3/8".
What is 3 way ducting?
A. 3 way ducting on the Zephyr AK1136 means that it can be ducted either through the roof with flashing and a cap, through the rear wall or by recirculation the air.
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